Trust the Italians to create a feeling of magic towards the runway. While the amount of craftsmanship is definitely elevated, it’s their flair for that nonchalantly fantastical which makes the Milan fashion runways a standout. At Fendiicon, just one clutch virtually covers the brand new season. Karl Lagerfeld, never someone to tell us what to anticipate, grown an uplifting bird-of-paradise flower in each one of the bags – which, happily, place the show’s focus on the well-deserving add-ons. Styles clean, architectural, and undeniably classic that boast arty accents, sudden bursts of color, patchwork and ombré effects, and sections of chunky beaded adornments alllow for a mood that’s trendsetting having a heavy dose of caprice, one which will satisfy editors and street blog writers alike.
Leave it to Miuccia to go for an utmost juxtaposition. She described Prada’s Fall ’15 collectionicon as “sweet but violent,” and she played with a candy shop’s palette of pastels, as well as some technical, digital-inspired patterns. It’s the deconstructed bag-within-a-bag that really captured my attention: color pairings like nude with Pepto-Bismal pink and clay blue with olive green ensure you’ll leave the outer portion unzipped to reveal the contrast.
It’s a new era at Gucciicon, one now led by Alessandro Michele, and it shows. The revamped Gucci girl is eccentric, eclectic, and unafraid of all things sheer. And unsexy, for that matter! It’s a symbol of her newfound confidence, and so are the bags in her hand: structured and emphatic, they speak of the leather goods of Gucci’s heritage. The canvas, double-G chain-strap bag is back, now with tough hardware, and so is the sense of attitude.
Dolce & Gabbanaicon paid homage to the matriarch of every Italian family, as well as mothers everywhere, with their collection. Not only did it make for a warm and poignant show, it made for some fanciful and elegant bags. Brooch-inspired embellishments might give grandma’s closet a little too much attention, but the miniaturized boxy top-handles, some in lizard, others coated in Art Deco-inspired crystal motifs, are definite winners. Finally, Tomas Maier was craving graphic structure and spotty, mod-derived patterns over at Bottega Venetaicon, which gave way to saturated, colorblocked takes on their heralded bags. Switching their trademark intrecciato over to the lining, for a smooth shell, complete with origami-folded gussets, makes for a cool twist, and so do the front-flap and ombre-effect alligator top handles. The colors may be lighthearted and bright, but the message is serious luxury all the way.